Havasupai Waterfalls Helicopter Hiking ... or just hiking
By Teresa Shaw Lengyel
Heading to Havasupai? Learn the easy way, from us. Leaving our Flagstaff retreat, we headed to Havasupai for a scouting trip to one of the coolest places on earth. Havasupai Falls is close to Flagstaff as the crow flies, but a bit complicated to reach. Venture Up has experienced an increase in clients seeking small corporate retreats for team building in Arizona. This trip tops the list.
A trip to Havasupai can be easy or hard. Our 2-day trip (not enough) was somewhere in between. Fortunately, our same group will return in August focusing on the waterside hikes only, which means a helicopter round-trip from the trailhead to the village.
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| Havasupai Falls, AZ -- It's amazing how many picnic tables are in the most remote areas of this clean, well-equipped canyon. Photo: ventureup.com |
Traveling with our long-time Navajo friends, Shannon Haskie and her 18-year-old son Jake, and Tempe dwellers, Brian Meller and Leticia Lebron, we left Flagstaff at 4:30 a.m. -- when coffee doesn't work -- and drove a lonely 166-miles to the trailhead.I-40 West from Flagstaff takes you to Seligman a 2-minute drive-by town hopping in Route 66 fame. The turnoff to the trailhead is tricky. If you are fully awake at dusk, you'll first see the sign below for the Grand Canyon North Rim. No, don't follow that sign. Take the "Indian 18" sign right after and continue right.There are no services on Route 18, and they are not kidding.We hiked down for 7 hours on Friday, with plenty of stops, and returned via a 10-minute helicopter ascent on Sunday. Helicopter rides are on a first-come basis. Cost is $95 one-way, $35 if you're a Navajo, and free if you're a Supai. The heli is a bargain, especially for those who end up with blisters and muscles so sore a flight up is the only way out.
When you reach the trailhead, park in the higher lot, or off the street. Avoid parking in the lower lot like this white guy did below:
The hike is steep at first and flattens out. It's not too difficult, but you'll be walking 8 miles or so. This is not the time to try out new hiking shoes or sandals. Even those meant for hiking can leave you with blisters, but I won't name brands, chicos.
Sinyella Store is the first stop before entering Havasupai Village. Shopkeeper Mr. Sinyella also has a house in Flagstaff and knows some people we do. Small world, altho we're not so far away as the crow flies.
The store is on the outskirts of the village, has plenty of cold drinks and hot food, including hamburgers and breakfast. Cokes are $2. They don't charge enough. Picnic tables and awnings offer a welcome place to relax by the horse corrals and village homes.
Like many American Indians, these natives live in what larger society considers poverty. Most visitors here find happy, friendly people with much for us to envy.
The store in Havasupai Village has a good selection of snacks, frozen foods, cold drinks, and bottled water, but only offers instant coffee. Stop what you're thinking. It would suck if they had a Starbucks here. One thing you will experience in a few days is how to live with less, like our forbears, and our native peoples do now.
A 2.5 mile hike takes you from the village to the campground. You will pass the Havasupai School, church, lodge (the only one) and Navajo Falls on the way.
The store is on the outskirts of the village, has plenty of cold drinks and hot food, including hamburgers and breakfast. Cokes are $2. They don't charge enough. Picnic tables and awnings offer a welcome place to relax by the horse corrals and village homes.
Like many American Indians, these natives live in what larger society considers poverty. Most visitors here find happy, friendly people with much for us to envy.
The store in Havasupai Village has a good selection of snacks, frozen foods, cold drinks, and bottled water, but only offers instant coffee. Stop what you're thinking. It would suck if they had a Starbucks here. One thing you will experience in a few days is how to live with less, like our forbears, and our native peoples do now.
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| Havasupai Village Store. Photo: ventureup.com |
A 2.5 mile hike takes you from the village to the campground. You will pass the Havasupai School, church, lodge (the only one) and Navajo Falls on the way.
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| Navajo Falls signals the way to Havasupai. Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Arriving at Havasupai campground. Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Do's & Don'ts you should know already. Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Frybfread? You betcha! This campground hut opens 9-5 , banker's hours. Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Brian Meller swims into Havasupai Falls and meets resistance. Who knew? Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Window to Moony Falls. Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Chains to Moony Falls. Photo: ventureup.com |
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| Bridge on way from Moony Falls to Beaver Falls. Photo: ventureup.com |
Havasupai Videos
(if Blogger accepts them - eye roll .. still trying tho!)Heli pad & community center
(I know, hold camera sideways).
Heli lands at trail head
Havasupai Falls
Descent to Moony Falls
Beaver Falls
Havasupai Panoramas
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| Navajo Falls area |
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Havasupai Falls
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| Hike from Moony Falls to Beaver Falls |
Planning for Havasupai
Pack Light: If ever there was a universal tip for any kind of travel, it's pack light. But do people listen? Nooooo, including Shannon Haskie who takes a kitchen on her back, with Wonderbread that arrives uncrushed.
While we have tons of gear, thanks to Venture Up's clients and sponsors who like us to review their products, nothing ideal for this trip was in Flagstaff. So, I had to go retail. I got everything from Sportsman's Warehouse here, a national chain with good prices and service. A great spot for recycled gear is locally-owned Flagstaff Sports Exchange. Peace Surplus and pricey REI are also in town.
This is what I took to Havasupai:
1. Down sleeping bag: A down sleeping bag, rated to 40 degrees F, is lightweight and packs more tightly than a larger bag for colder climes. Supai's coldest temp was 45 degrees F this March weekend. Cost: $100 Weight: under 2 lbs. Brand: Kelty
2. Itty bitty sleeping pad: A delightfully small inflatable pad will leave you lots of room for food and drink and lessen the bulk. Cost: $60 Weight: 18 oz. Brand: Static V
4. Hip Pack: This red hip pack is padded in back, has plenty of pockets, and has an extra cumberbund-type strap for extra support. Ok, it's not that fat or formal, but it does support well over long hikes, such as the Havasupai descent and the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim hike Shannon and I did in February. We took the Kaibab Trail (tough if you have bad knees) to Bright Angel Lodge at the River, and took Bright Angel Trail back to the rim. It supports the net bag well, which has no waste strap. Cost: $50. Weight: Who cares? Brand: Mountainsmith
What I did not bring:
1. Tent: Why carry more weight when you can sleep under the stars? It's not like you're climbing K2. If you're concerned about being cold, get a sleeping sheet liner to add extra warmth and keep your bag clean ($18). If rain is forecast, get a bivouac sack to slip over your bag. If you can find a picnic table, or clear your own, you're in luck. Tables make a great level bed and keep crawly things at bay. In March, we saw a couple of bugs and two squirrels and bats flitting about at night. That's it. In summer, expect lizard conventions and a few crawlers.
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| The net backpack easily carries the sleeping bag and pad with plenty of room for food and clothes. These bags are fully packed and that's all I took to Havasupai!
Oh, in case you're wondering what I came home to after a glorious weekend in Havasupai, read about the AT&T Business Services experience.
Teresa Shaw Lengyel is a lifer at Venture Up and cannot get fired.
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